Destination: A Hike Near Denver









We pulled up to the payment booth and rolled down the window. “That’ll be $7,” the park ranger said asking for our payment. As we passed him the money he started going over the park rules, “It’s a drought so no cigarettes. Right now its bear, mountain lion, and rattlesnake season, so boys – you lead the way on the trail.” We laughed uncomfortably. As he confirmed each item on his list of rules and regulations, his voice sounded very affirmative as if he didn’t trust us. “And for future reference no dogs” we looked around at each other in confusion. Usually when someone says that they are saying you can get by this time but here’s the rule for next time. Sort of like when you are pulled over for texting and driving, you act like you didn’t know and the cop gives you a warning. Except in this instance we had no dog. Before we went on our way he warned us of the incoming thunderstorms and asked us to turn back on the trail if we saw inclement weather.

The hike at Carpenter’s Peak Trail at Roxborough was a leisurely trek* up a mountain through red rocks and desert foliage. I asked too many unanswered questions along the way like, what kind of tree/flower/rock is this. What type of bird is that singing? I think there are several different ones. Are they all the same species? Has anyone ever seen a bear? Is that a humming bird? My hiking mates, my sister, cousin, and friend, had no qualms about expressing their annoyance. I then hiked quietly, only slightly aggravating them when I stopped every 5 seconds to take pictures.


The storm the park ranger mentioned seemed to be passing north of us, so despite some thunder we marched along. I loved the way the orange-red rocks popped against the dark sky. It was like night and day all at the same time. Slowly we realized that everyone else we passed on the trail was going in the opposite direction. We must have gotten here later in the afternoon than normal, I thought. Then more thunder. The clouds started shifting and separate groups of clouds began to darken and grow heavy. I asked if we should head back and my experienced outdoorsy companions teased me and urged me onward.

We were almost to the summit, when a couple hurried past us and said, “There is a lot of lightening up there. We’re heading back and so should you.” They gave us a look a mother does when she says “young lady.” I took this as a validation of my previous anxiety and was now begging to return. Disappointed and reluctant they finally agreed. But only half way down it started to rain and we stopped in the woods to determine a course of action. Should we stay or should we go? After more coaxing and dirty looks from other passing hikers, we left.

We ran back to the car with the cold rain drops wetting our hair, clothes, and skin. I've never been out in nature in a storm**. It was terrifying and exhilarating to run through the branches with dusty path underfoot. The rain refreshed me as I sweat while the thunder and lightning motivated me to keep going. By the time we got to the car I was soaked and out of breath. We jumped in and drove back more quickly than we arrived. I exhaled a sigh of relief and thought about the experience. I will never forget the smell of the stormy mountain air and the quietness it brought to the wilderness.


*The national park website says the trail is moderate but I didn't find it to be too intimidating.
**On land. I owe you a story about my time on the stormy seas.

What I Wore: Apple Picking

And here's what I wore apple picking... I went every autumn and in my favorite boots.

Wardrobe: Apple Picking

Pants, Henley, Jacket, Booties, Bag, Earrings, Scarf

From my time in NYC, I quickly learned that New Yorkers value clothing, shoes, and bags that last for many years. They will buy a pair of shoes and have them re-soled a few times before getting new ones. You might see a girl in her 20s carrying around her grandmothers Louis Vuitton or Chanel  handbag, still in perfect condition.

One piece that I have always admired is the Barbour jacket. It's classically Northeaster casual with a touch of prep. You can wear this commuting, on the weekends for brunch, hiking, apple picking, or just simply throw it on while running errands. The waxed cotton keeps you dry in the rain and warm in the wind. I highly recommend this jacket as an investment piece that you will find joy in for years to come.

Well, I've convinced myself. Please excuse me, I have a bit of shopping to do...

Wardrobe: What I Wore

...and here's what I wore for a day on Mount Rainier.

Wardrobe: Mount Rainier



Hair ties, Henley, Vest, Sunglasses, Pants, Ta Ta Tamer, Watch, Shoes

As one who normally shops for heels and silk dresses, venturing into REI and the world of athletic wear was a bit daunting. In the past I have dreaded any suggestion of leaving the city and kayaking, hiking, etc. One reason was that I always felt frumpy and out of place. I never wore the right shoes (hiking shoes don't have heels?) and often was too hot or too cold. But now after spending time shopping in this new genre (Sara you were right, it is fun!) I have a few stylish and sporty outfits I can wear next time Gman asks.

When choosing an outfit it is important to start with the right underthings. Whenever I go for a run, practice yoga, and now when I go hiking, I do not leave home without my Ta Ta Tamer from Lululemon. This bra not only holds everything comfortably in place (seriously, no bouncing) it does not flatten you out either, which for me can sometimes be painful.

Going outside doesn't mean you have to be boring either. Have fun with your accessories. I love these vintage inspired hair ties and Chloe's take on the aviator.

Lastly, as someone who wants to be prepared but doesn't often do outdoorsy activities I want my athletic wear to do double duty. These layering pieces can be worn for other occassions too. I see the long sleeved top pairing nicely with some high waisted jeans and loafer pump (like this one) for a night out with the girls.

Destination: Lake Willoughby, Vermont

So our last stop on this little road trip adventure is Lake Willoughby, Vermont. Back in the ice ages an iceberg pushed its way through a mountain here creating a 300 foot deep lake. It famously resembles a Norwegian gorge. The glacial lake boasts bountiful fishing and many important/rare species of birds can be seen whilst hiking through the mountains. However intriguing we did not go there for this. We went because it was in the middle of nowhere in a state we had little experience in. Lake Willoughby is a place where people from nearby rural towns go for vacation. It is not a place where the common Manhattanite goes to “get away from it all”.

As we left Bar Harbor, I felt sad. Not only was I going to miss the lovely vistas and scenic adventures but the Bed and Breakfast served free Goldfish crackers at all times. We did little research when planning our last destination and however sad I was about leaving Bar Harbor I was excited to discover an unknown land. I zoned out most of the car ride and voyeuristically gazed out the window at the passing farms, forests, homes, and towns. We stopped to investigate a few and discovered local coffee shops and dive bars and family restaurants and delicious ice cream shops stuffed in the back of gas stations on semi dirt roads.  

We stayed at The Willoughvale Inn & Restaurant which included luxurious amenities like sweeping views of the lake, a working fireplace (we used it damn it. I don’t care how hot it was outside), a little outside space to enjoy the views, coffee, tea, and a bathtub in the bedroom (vs. the traditional route of putting it in the bathroom…).

Since we only had one full day we decided to take advantage of our natural surroundings (vs. driving to a “large” nearby town and going outlet shopping). We enjoyed a lovely American style breakfast buffet at the hotel then headed out to see the lake's bountiful offering of activities.

Out of all our options we decided to go for a lovely canoe ride on the lake; as if I had not stepped out of my comfort zone enough on this vacation. It was not my first time canoeing but it isn't my first choice in water sports (boating with a driver would be number one). We paddled out to the middle and sat there for quite some time absorbing the panoramic views of the mountains. My concerns about the depth of the lake and the sorts of monsters that could be waiting for our canoe to tip over was overcome by the peace and serenity of the view. Truly that moment was worth the long drive into the middle of nowhere.

After our canoe ride we felt very relaxed and decided to try a highly recommended restaurant in East Burke, River Garden Cafe, for lunch/brunch. The food, atmosphere, and people were surprisingly sophisticated.  Our lunch was comparable to many we had in NYC. We overlooked a lovely garden and in the near distance children were tubing down a stream. We grabbed some chips and salsa from the convenience store next door (the only two commercial shops to be found) and spent the rest of the afternoon lounging on our porch. The next morning we hopped in the car and headed home. Ending the trip with a low key, peaceful day on the lake was just what the doctor ordered. We arrived in Manhattan relaxed, refreshed, and ready to start our new journey as husband and wife.

 

Destination: Bar Harbor, Maine

 

Stop four: Bar Harbor, Maine

After the lovely night in the woods (here) the drive to Bar Harbor from White Mountain National Forest could not have felt longer. If it weren’t for the GPS politely telling us we had 90 miles to go or would be there in 28 minutes, we might not have made it. In an earlier post, suggested bringing extra food in the car while on a road trip, I learned that lesson when forced to eat only fast food for a day on our drive. But once in Bar Harbor our attitudes immediately changed. The landscape and charming tourist town won us over. Not to mention it was 10 degrees cooler and not a bug to be found.

 

We stayed at the Atlantean Cottage. Upon arrival the owner (Gary) happily greeted us, took our luggage, gave us a tour, and offered us coffee, tea, water, and snacks. Our room had a lovely view of the garden and offered romance inducing amenities such as a working fireplace, claw foot bathtub, and comfy bed. The owner also took it upon himself to create binders of his favorite restaurants and attractions. These came in handy when foraging for dinner.

The next morning over our delicious vegetarian breakfast, Gary helped us plan our itinerary. He gladly mapped out our hikes, food, tours, and downtime. Luckily it was not necessary for us to plan ahead.

As with many now touristy towns, Bar Harbor started out as an industrious town of fishing and shipping. Soon after its settlement by Europeans, the Hudson River School of Artists (who I talk about here) started painting in Bar Harbor. They encouraged many New Yorkers to come and explore. Then the rich (including iconic American families such as the Rockefellers) built “cottages” (summer mansions) and a booming tourist industry followed. Today Mount Desert Island sees millions of tourists every summer. 

Lobster is still fished here commercially and locally. Residents live off of lobster like Floridians live off of grouper. I would give them a hard time for casually eating lobster everyday but they don’t leave in the winter. So for that it must be their consolation.

I'm enjoying myself at the Asticou Inn.

That being said, you must have lobster for every meal whilst here. The best lobster salad sandwich is at the Asticou Inn in Northeast Harbor. While you eat, you gaze out at a beautiful inlet sprinkled with sailboats and rolling fog (the fog in Mount Desert Island is insane! I've never seen such thick fog come and go).

 

One must-do is to take a whale watching boat tour. We were skeptical at first but Gary convinced us to give it a try. There are several companies giving tours and he recommended going on the Nature Cruise through the Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co. It is a shorter cruise than the traditional whale watching cruise and we saw far more wildlife (many species of birds, seals, and sometimes whales too) and scenery. We even spotted two Bald Eagles! The tour guide was very knowledgeable about the geological history of the area too which we found surprisingly interesting (history of rocks seems boring, no?).

 

Although there is a little downtown area with plenty of art galleries and shops filled with souvenirs, you should spend most of your time in Arcadia National Park. The park offers sweeping views of the ocean and surrounding mountainous landscape. The hiking trails range from simple to very difficult. There are beautiful carriage roads which were built by J.D. Rockefeller, Jr. You can rend bikes or horses and ride along these rustic trails. Many people recommended we have lunch at Jordan Pond and try the pop-overs. I recommend skipping this horrible tourist trap. The food was not a notch better than a cafeteria at a hospital and I’ve had better pop-overs in Manhattan. Bring a picnic if you feel you might get hungry while out on the trail.

 As a result of massive fires in 1947 the once dominant spruce-fir forest now shares its land with birch, aspen, and oak too. This variety attracts a lot of wildlife! There are many species of birds, reptiles, and animals to spot along your hikes. We saw a beaver and a few deer too! Although the forest is bustling with fellow tourists you can easily feel as if you are the only person there. I really enjoyed being surrounded by beautiful trees and wildlife without hearing other people, sweating like crazy or dealing with bugs and mosquitoes.

Overall, Bar Harbor is a destination I can see myself going to go over and over. The locals are super friendly and laid-back. You can find a great meal. And you can relax in breathtaking natural landscape.

"Glamping"



via Crush Cul du Sac

Here is another way to camp, "glamping". Does this come with a chef?

And speaking of glamour, the June issue of Vogue featured some great American summer travel destinations. They also had some camping/hiking/outdoorsy outfit suggestions... pick up a copy for details!